COVETED MAGAZINE PAGE 115.
The year began with the launch of the Fall/
Winter collections in the most important cities
of fashion, with the first fashion weeks reserved
for
the
menswear
collections.
Classic
cuts,
black nylon, retro details, drama, strength to
strength, are the main features that describe the
stunning collections during these first weeks.
Starting in London - one of the most imposing and
fashionable cities, which impact is reflected in all
spheres of the industry -, the city began its cycle
with a philosophy that leads us to an absence of
genres, to the production of pieces that promote
equality. According to Edun Loweth, “the stores need
to adapt to how people are starting to dress [...]; if
you didn’t gender a store, there’d be a lot more men
buying things that were actually womenswear”.
Following London, Milan started its cycle of
events with the big houses representing the best
of Italian fashion. The fashion week in Milan was
mainly marked by classic collections, whose most
outstanding clothes were blazers, retro suits, double-
breasted jackets and sharp suits.
Armani dazzled, promoting its tailoring collection,
very focused on classic suits and with a sober
philosophy that reminds us of a style accompaniment
throughout the five decades of the brand. Prada
was one of the brands that also stood out during
this fashion week, with a very industrial approach
and strong references to its previous collections
that dominated through the days. According to
Miuccia Prada, with the black nylon, the project
showcased “approaches that investigate the poetic,
practical, technical and aesthetic aspect of nylon”.
Paris, the City of Light, is the third residence
to receive the houses of fashion. Kim Jones
announced his retirement as the men’s artistic
director of Louis Vuitton after seven years. The
brand’s show was accompanied by public figures
mainly with a big impact in fashion, such as
Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, who walked
down the runway with the artistic director in
matching Louis Vuitton monogrammed coats.
Ami’s rainy rooftop show was a romantic ode to
Paris, with a show which, once more, emphasised
the designer’s profound attachment to Paris. “It’s my
story, I’m from Paris, I adore this city. It’s the tale
of a bunch of mates who get together in the name
of friendship, solidarity and goodwill. There’s a
lot of love in what I do”, said Alexandre Mattiussi,
Ami’s Creative Designer. With the introduction of
the men-to-women collection, going from strength
to strength, the collection transports us to the
philosophy that was also present at the London’s
fashion week, that reinforces an absence of choice by
gender and that promotes equality in the style and
design of the pieces for both genders. “I make clothes
for people to wear them! It’s a wardrobe in which
nothing is contrived”, explained Mattiussi.Tom Ford
gave the men’s New York fashion week a heavy dose
of sex, luxury and glamour. The show was mainly
marked by luxury suits, champagne and half-naked
models. The main focus was also the collections of
two new designers, Abasi Rosborough and Death To
Tennis, both of them presenting their first runway
shows. N. Hoolywood’s collection was focused on
industrial philosophy and, above all, a reference to
construction turned out into a construction-worker-
themed collection, complete with actual construction
workers who joined as street-cast models for a
memorable finale.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2018 MENSWEAR
